Visiting Death Valley was a journey into the past. Abandoned mines and ghost towns dot the vast expanse of the desert. The mining frenzy at the turn of the 20th century gave rise to towns like Rhyolite, the area's best-preserved ghost town, located just outside park borders in Nevada. Sun bleached ruins, rusty piles of tin cans, a grave adorned with a feathered garter belt, and abandoned mines that secrete warm drafts of air and musty odors are all that remain of the once bustling town of an estimated 3,500 - 10,000 residents. As I wandered among the decay, I smelt faint trails of perfume and sweat in the breeze and heard the whispers of Rhyolite's past inhabitants echo in the hillsides. A ghost town it may be, but Rhyolite felt very much alive.
Moving farther into the past, a visit to Death Valley is an exploration of millions of years of geologic change. Formed by ancient seas and lakes, volcanic action, wind, and erosion, the landscape is composed of terraced rock formations, colorful mineral residue, salt deposits, snaking canyons, and enormous sand dunes. Driving tours and hiking trails are an excellent way to experience the peculiar world of Death Valley. Places like the Devil's Golf Course, with its convoluted ground made of sodium chloride craters and spikes, Bad Water at 282 feet below sea level, and the Ubehebe volcanic crater, are but a few of the park's unusual attractions located conveniently just off the side of the road.
For the daring - skull shattering, unpaved roads lead to places like the Racetrack, a sparkling white playa nestled in dark mountains. One of the more bizarre characters in Death Valley's roster of oddities, the Racetrack is named for its mystifying moving rocks. Big and small, the rocks are trailed by grooves that zigzag, curve, and draw straight lines on the cracked valley floor. There are several theories about this phenomenon, but no one has ever witnessed the rocks in motion. The most popular hypothesis is that they move on slick wet mud or thin layers of ice by the force of gusting wind.
With all the driving tours (complete with a flat tire), hiking, and several nights of camping, Benjamin and I were ready for a little luxury. We spent our last night at the Furnace Creek Ranch to enjoy the comforts of a desert oasis. The Ranch not only offers rooms and cabins, but a spring fed swimming pool (87º), golf course, tennis courts, spa treatments, horse back riding and champagne carriage rides, a general store, saloon, and several restaurants. The prices were above average and the room, at $150.00, was comfortable but a little worn out. There's little competition in the desert, and the prices complement the out-of-the-way location. The Ranch dates back to 1881, built as accommodation for workers at the Borax mines and opened to guests in 1933. The history of the ranch takes up two pages in the guest services book and imbues the walls and floorboards with all the romance of a great old west movie.
I felt melancholy as I said good-bye to Death Valley. Watching the magical land disappear in the rear view mirror felt like closing the cover of my favorite book, sad that I'd finished the story. Death Valley is a land of extremes, diversity, wonderment, and history and offers something for everyone: golfers, backpackers, mountain bikers, hikers, nature lovers, photographers, and those simply looking for a little R&R. The colorful characters and rich history of Death Valley mixed with the diverse landscapes and natural phenomenon of the park make it a truly unique destination. Don't let the grisly name fool you; Death Valley is a vibrant desert paradise.
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