With the spectacular beauty of the Pacific on its side, the dumping ground of Glass Beach is enchanting. I had to tear myself away from its unusual allure to check out Fort Bragg's other main attraction, Noyo Harbor. Here, sightseers can go sea fishing and kayaking, and during winter months, get a look at gray whales that pass by on their yearly migration between Baha, California and the Bering Sea. If the town of Mendocino is a pair of white gloves, Noyo Harbor is a pair of rubber boots. Its business is based on the sea, and as with all things of the sea, Noyo Harbor is salty, weathered, and rough around the edges. After two hours on the ocean in search of whales, I followed my nose to The Fish Market, guided by the aroma of garlic and onions sautéing in butter. I enjoyed a beer on the patio, people watching and savoring the stillness of dry land. Locals come here to buy the fresh catch of the day for their evening meal while tourists suck crabmeat from its shell and shake off the motion of the sea. Next-door is Carine's Fish Grotto, the quintessential sea shack restaurant of peeling gray paint and a nautical themed décor. Located on waters shared by the coast guard, fishing boats, and a resident sea lion, Carine's provides the authenticity I look for while visiting a new place. Here you can dine among locals, belching as they suck lobster off their fingers, while you feast on house specialties such as burgers, clam chowder, and fish 'n chips. Seated at a picnic table covered with a faded gingham tablecloth, I gazed at a tear in the deck umbrella, and was reminded of the contrast between the polished town of Mondocino and the unrefined atmosphere of Fort Bragg. My experience of the Mendocino coast had taken me from a Martha Stewart paradise to its blue collar equivalent. Later, seated at Ole's Whale Watch bar at the Little River Inn, I met a couple from Redding who have returned to Mendocino for the past 10 years. As the Inn's restaurant is relatively small, and the patrons dressed to the nines, I took a seat at the more informal bar next to Rich and Darlene, to enjoy a glass of wine and a meal of scrumptious crab cakes and shrimp cocktail. Rich looked at my dinner with appreciative eyes. "You've chosen both of the house specialties," he remarked as he ordered another drink from Susan, Ole's infamous bartender. She's one of Mendocino's main attractions, as far as Darlene and Rich are concerned. When I asked about their draw to the coast, Darlene replied, "We come to relax... we don't really do anything." I thought it might be for the art galleries, spa treatments, fresh seafood, golf, shopping, whales, or beaches... But Darlene and Rich come to Mendocino with a clear schedule. And although I'd packed my weekend get-away with a facial, hot rock massage, and a whale watching tour, I could understand where they were coming from. Amidst the many things to do in Mendocino, it was also a place to relax and do nothing but soak in its beauty. A place, simply, to be. In Mendocino, opposites attract, with fine china and paper plates, pampering spas and rugged seas, landscapes of nature's creation amidst those of man. Here, you can pack your day with activity, or do nothing at all. With something for everyone, from the pleasure-seeker to the hippie, the towns of Mendocino and Fort Bragg are the Yin and Yang of the Northern California coast. Yin is at rest, Yang moves. Yin is inside, Yang outdoors. Yin is dazzling, Yang worn out.
Page 2 of 3 < Previous | If You Go tips > |
